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OK, Ulla, here we are at Peru’s doorstep.
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That’s the Peruvian border ? XL, you’re mistaken… it’s not Peru !
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Well yes, a little narrow the border check-point… but we’re in
Tumbes and we’re told to park right in the middle of the street with all
the travelling salesmen around us, and there’s only one customs officer…
unbelievable !
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It’s extraordinary, XL, the administrative papers were sent
finally stamped in 20 minutes : it’s a record !
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But our master are checking if all is in order, you never know, as
it’s a bit quick this time, when one remembers it took us 15 hours to get
through customs, who’s right and who’s wrong ?
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XL, this country seems pleasant and you see, they’re warning
against child trafficking, so it does exist… that’s crazy !
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PERU is 1,285,220 sq. km for 27 million 148 thousand people thus :
22 inhabitants per sq. km.
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The currency used here
is the Soles and One US Dollar = 3 Soles.
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Ulla, I don’t know if the Gallic is aware that we’re going to be
short of gasoil. For the past 200 kms, the service stations have been
closed.
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Yes, I heard say that if the service stations are closed, it’s to
avoid contraband as in Peru fuel is three times more expensive… Ah ! Yes,
that’s promising, so the next city is 200 km away….
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Ulla, Ulla, look, there’s a contraband station : Why don’t we
stop ?
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XL, they only sell 5 litre jerrycans and we have only two
jerrycans = 60 spare litres so we can continue as we are, don’t be as
worried as that… don’t forget that it’s a Gallic driving !
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Sshh,
Ulla, don’t be aggressive. We’re arriving in the next city to insure our
expedition, with the famous SOAT which presently costs 350 soles (that is
120 dollars) for a year, that’s peanuts… On the other hand, if we’d
subscribed an insurance policy for South America in the United States
that would have cost us 3500 US Dollars for a year and moreover
not acknowledged by the South American police, simply crazy….
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OK, XL, I’m
hungry and our companions have decided to g do a tour on the Pascamaya
waterfront.
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OK, XL, I’m
hungry and our companions have decided to g do a tour on the Pascamaya
waterfront.
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And on top
of that, they don’t sell dry food here… the only thing we have to eat is
mutton heads.. excellent !
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Yes, for
you, Ulla, the three don’t frighten you… you’d eat that ? How dismal…..
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With a
little soup, sauces and a few vegetables…
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And for our master a black corn juice…
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Ulla, did
you see how nice they are, Ingelbert and his wife, whom we met at the
market ?
Moreover
they invited us to their home for lunch with their three children ; I was
able to play football, just like Zidane.
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In the
plate, there’s a large shellfish, ceviche (raw marinated fish or cooked
with lemon), puffed corn, white kidney beans and small vegetables.
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We’re well
here but it’s time to get back on the road again heading for the capital,
Lima, 1200 km away.
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Did you
see, Ulla, they most probably have excess cocoa, they’re throwing away
the seeds.
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No, XL,
they’re drying them and here, no one steals them.
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You’re
right, Ulla, it seems that in this country, there are no thieves,
tabernacle ! That doesn’t exist, a country without thieves…
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Ulla, how do they manage to live in the midst of nothing, well…
desert ?
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In spite
of this stifling heat, there’s a village right spam bang in the middle of
the desert… without a single tree…
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Tell me,
Ulla, there must be Israelis here as they manage to cultivate in the
desert… it’s quite a feat as they have no water, bravo.
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Of course
it is, XL, we’re in Peru, for goodness’ sake !
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Ulla,
watch out ; that plane is going to land in front of us on the road…
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No, it
isn’t, it’s pulverising pesticides, let’s close the windows quickly !
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Look at
this wall, XL, do you see here ? They’re not wanting less work hours or
increases, but simply asking the government to be able to eat and less
misery as this country is very, very poor, and they don’t complain more
than that… unlike some in our country who are never happy because it’s
raining, or because it’s hot or cold or something else… in short,
always dissatisfied… !
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We’re
nearing Lima, the capital of Peru and as usual, we will only go through
this city quickly, as web sites will tell you more about it, so a few
photographs and we’ll head off for the Andes mountain range.
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Did you see,
XL, in Peru, fuel is the most expensive we’ve paid it since the start of
our trip : unbelievable ! That’s 11,09 Peruvian soles or 3,60 US Dollars
for a gallon, that’s 0,95 US Dollar for a litre of gasoil
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Oh yes,
that’s expensive !! So, Ulla, if I’ve understood this well, those who
have cars here are few and far between… they’re the ones who pay fuel
taxes which should benefit the poorest people… but that’s not the case,
it seems.
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You’re
right, XL… moreover all the goods are carried by truck. There are no
trains here… So the freight forwarders add on the price of diesel, called
« D2 » here, on the price of goods ; that’s why everything is expensive,
food and the rest…
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Ulla, I
already told you that we must not speak, nor judge the politics, or
religion of the country we’re crossing !
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You know,
XL, we are in the midst of the Inca civilisation ; they were known to be
warriors. Admire the earth block constructions
that dried in the sun and that they lay one atop the others,
that’s the do-it-yourself way.
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Ah, wake
up, Ulla, there are two friends indicating to us that we are in the
center of Peru, so half way across it.
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No, but
frankly, XL, they have open air fuel, and mountains of coal, and
mountains with snow, so
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they’re cultivating, they’re fishing, they have all Man
needs…
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Why so much misery then ?
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Because all the people told us that the money goes into
the pockets of the politicians !
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Ssshhh… Ulla… that does not concern us, don’t forget,
that we’re not supposed to judge… !
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XL, I’m cold with this altitude ; it’s only 7 degrees
Celsius (44.6° Farhenheit)
and yet it’s summer here… and on top of that
maddening turns….
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In the labyrinth of our only road, well trail… here we
are in front of a crossroads… !
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We must go Westwards… thank you the compass… OK.. we’re
off
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Ulla, get up, did you see these lamas, they’ve got red,
white and blue flags on their ears to welcome us !
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What nonsense you’re saying, poor XL… you’re dreaming…
this altitude is having a bad effect on you.. you’re delirious... ! On
the other hand, I see Incas ruins, but the lamas are not commenting the
details to us, what a pity.
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This grocery store in the middle of the mountains is
typical, but quickly let’s call our Gypsy back this man looks as if
he’s in falling in love…
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Did you notice, Ulla, there is no running water, the
clothes washes are done by hand… with a smile, and signs of the hand on
top of that to welcome us
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XL, come back in the car I see a condor wanting to eat
Yorkshire… he could cut you up into York slices…
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Nonsense, Ulla, I hate you, remember the bear in
Alaska ? .. you wouldn’t act wise then !
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Ulla, again a service station closed down, and yet it’s
not Sunday today…
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Yes, XL, you know, Perou has petrol and no stations,
they should make an exchange with the USA as they have service stations
and little petrol, or with France as it doesn’t have petrol but ideas.
The world is soo badly organized !
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Well yes, we can’t change a thing, by ourselves…
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It’s true XL, we can’t change a thing by ourselves, but
I’m sure they’re going to drill with the USA who will, as usual, make a
contract, with the Government 80% for the USA and 20% for this country.
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Ulla, you’re lying it’s because you heard the Peruvians
say that, you’re not the one that’s for sure…
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Shut up and look at this sign, XL : that says
everything !
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OK, you Ulla, look up front and I don’t dare look in
the rear-view mirror… there are 10 cm.. at the very most !
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Oh la la, the Andes Cordillera is the wages of fear,
but they’re totally unconscious to take these roads well not roads but
trails… so steep against the mountain…
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XL, it’s craziness, there is only trail, the roads here
are to be forgotten… I can’t sleep… I can’t !
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Well, yes, it’s the only road going from Lima to Cusco
by the Cordillera and it’s used, by buses and trucks… and some
thoughtless travellers such as we are…
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Ah, these winding turns spinning around the mountains…
they’re frightening me…
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No, Ulla, I don’t want to die, even if the cemetery is
waiting for me around the bend.
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Ulla, these tight turns make me shake with fear….
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XL, stop complaining that way… excuse me… I must shut
your little eyes as Death awaits us…
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Me too, XL, I’m closing my eyes that bus is coming
straight for us… both of us won’t go through…
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Result : the bus backed up as we can’t with two
trailers… but we exploded a tire by licking the mountain side too
closely.
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With spectators…
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Ulla, our Gallic is the best, do you know why ? Because
he saved us from that nightmare…
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Yes, I know but I know one thing in any case that pig
held on a leash, I could’ve eaten it…
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Look XL, this peasant woman is as calm as the pig
sleeping there… ! and I’m not !
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In front of what ? Our URO, but what is that ?
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Think, XL, look at their heads, they’ve never seen such
an expedition it’s an Unidentified Rolling Object !
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Ulla, it’s true they have the same stunned look as the
inhabitants when we cross their village in our rolling house so it’s
become a URO
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I’m tired Ulla, it’s winding and it’s turning and we
can’t stop over any where…
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Well, yes, the tourist stops are not planned for, you
see that only a few peasants live here in huts, in the middle of the
mountains with their sheep, their cow, donkeys, a few horses and lamas-alpagas.
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XL, XL, look, it’s a mirage there is a small lake I’m
going to be able to swim
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You yes, but I want to sleep…. Super, we’re parking, it
was high time nightfall is here.
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Ulla, I believe we’re nearing a city, look the road is
asphalted.
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It’s great XL, now we can see the mountains by raising
our heads, it’s beautiful.
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Do you see, XL, it’s a typical pueblo with its grocer
in her traditional dress showing us the road.
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It’s an even more typical bar…
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… and moreover we must pay the price of 3 cars at the
road toll, that’s ridiculous…
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Do you see, Ulla, you should have come onto this market
place, full of marvellous colour…
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…the telephone… is well protected…
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XL, I don’t get over it that Canadians such as yourself
are on our road and moreover, they too are going to Ushuaia !
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Yes, Ulla, and on motorcycles, if you please, that’s
Canac (Canadian) courage ! See you later Patrice and Christiane.
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Ulla,
how nice, all the village is coming to welcome us, by offering us mangoes,
or avocadoes… from their garden,
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They’re not rich not to say poor but their richness
lies in their heart and in their eyes…
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Yes, well while Mr XL is posing, our Gallic has spring
soldering problems…
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During the repairs… a truckload leaves for Lima… and a
baby sits for the photograph… with his mother..
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And you and the Gypsy celebrate with the children of
the pueblo… !
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XL, operation successful all is repaired with the means
at hand, the son José is at the bellows while the father is at the anvil…
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Below, here is the workshop and the father – proud of
his tools he has made them himself, bravo.
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Our Gallic and our Gypsy decide to discover the magic
potion of the village and to offer it to the whole pueblo, even the
headmistress of the school is there and it’s Antonio who’s in charge of
its preparation : a slice of orange is squeezed with cane sugar and
honey, then rum… with or without ice… to your health ! and in Quechua
which is the second dialect after Castellan, one says « Ahuayro » …
(health)
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Our friends all wanted to visit the URO… well… our
rolling house but not everyone was able to fit in…
So the fiesta continued outside
… thanks to all and see you soon…
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….a good night to everyone…..
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So, my Gypsy, are you coming ! as I’m singing Joe
Dassin’s song (in the ear of my Gallic) « how long how far is your path
father, how I would like to stop there… »
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Oh, Ulla, finally a real city Cusco… I’m dreaming… !
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XL, that small meal, ceviche fish gave us energy to go
visit Macchu Picchu….
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Tonight we’ve been invited to have Christmas dinner
with Omar Gustavo, his wife Delsy, and their little Maria Luciana, they
know we’re going to visit Macchu Picchu and that our return is planned
for 9.30 pm.
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You know, they’re nice, Ulla, as they’re going to wait
for their return to eat Christmas dinner.
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OK, XL, bad news for us… as to go to Machu Picchu there
is no road… so it’s by train, and dogs are not accepted… we must wait in
the house for our masters’ return… !
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But, Ulla, they don’t have any respect for dogs… this
is a real nuisance !
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Listen XL, do you know many people who travel in a
rolling house, and with two dogs ? Usually tourists going to visit this
site come by plane, so we wait for their return, that’s all !
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6 am sharp the departure : see you our companions, be
careful !
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I heard the Gypsy say for the record, that this famous
train cannot cross the city, built down below
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So it’s obliged to go forward then to change tracks so
as to go back to change tracks again in order to go further up the
mountain and so on… until it gets to the suburbs, it’s quite special,
long but original.
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This train is carrying passengers bringing back
different products to their village, this is typical.
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That day, our companions were in Train number 487,
there was a head-on ram crash… they were just shaken up but the drivers
went to hospital (without gravity) and were 3 hours late… spectacular
that detail !
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To celebrate our arrival… safe and sound… a small
welcome cocktail in the Machu Picchu Pueblo.
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The discovery of Machu Picchu occurred by
hasard when the explorer Hiram Bingham found himself on the trace of the
last Inca fort of Vilcabamba, then he found the last Inca capital and
made known the existence of the sacred city of Machu Picchu in 1911, he
chose to call it by the same name as the mountain on which it was found,
Machu Picchu, which means « old summit » in Quechua, the native tongue.
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In order to visit this city we have an original guide
… a lama….
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On top of the high degree of Inca architectural
development and stone art possessed by Machu Picchu, a great part of its
beauty is due to the surrounding landscape and the majesty of the city,
it’s magnificent.
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The latter is surrounded by cliff drops and mountains,
between the Andes and the Amazonian jungle.
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We get back to our two friends XL and Ulla, at midnight
totally panicked in our house, first because they’ve been cooped up
indoors 18 hours in a row (without any damage) and on top of that,
tradition here is to fire off crackers, and that noise is ten times
bigger for their ears than for ours.
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It is true that is resembled the start of a war, but
here, crackers announced the birth of Christ.
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Well, you see, XL, I don’t hear a thing any more, as I
think I’ve become deaf !
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Ah, OK, so you don’t
hear a thing if I tell you that Christmas dinner is served next
door and that we’ve been expected for the past 3 hours now…
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I’m coming,
I’m coming, oh yes, I hear you really well ! Thank you XL.
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Ulla, I’d really like a hat like that pretty yellow
one, it’s the typical Puno sombrero.
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XL, we’ve been looking at Lake Titi-Caca, for a good
while now, but we can’t get near it, nor touch its waters.
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We can’t park anywhere, it’s despairing… I can’t even
take a dip…
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From up there, I see baskets for the trout breeders… up
ahead I see snow-capped mountains, our companions have said that that’s
Bolivia… but really, how can I explain that such a superb lake such as
this one, deserves to have facilities for tourists which would generate
money for Peru !
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Stop Ulla, you know just as well as I do that
expeditions as ours don’t come here…
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Shut up, Ulla, we park up there and admire the
countryside, you very well know that this is not Peru…
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While I’m waiting, you, Mr XL, the copilot looks at the
streets we must cross, with our 18 metre long convoy.
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You’re right, XL, look at the nice head he has….
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It earns better money than to sell sheepskins on the
roadsite.
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Tell me, XL, did you notice how the city of Pomata
before the Bolivian border, is clean and welcoming.
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Thank you to the inhabitants and friends of Peru, you
who are ready to give what you don’t have, know that we Westerners have a
true lesson of life to learn from you and especially we hope Peru will
progress.
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