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More liberal, Argentine, you say, Ulla ? We’re going to see that
quite soon….
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Indeed not many people… waiting… it’s great ! Here we are in a
duty-free area.
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They’re only two customs officers but in one hour, everything’s
settled… to the Futaleufu border, bravo !
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All right, let’s go and get some gasoil… ah, it’s priced at 2,07
Argentinian Pesos to the litre, that’s 0,58 USD or 0,44 Euro per litre,
it’s less expensive than in Chile… taking into consideration the size of
the country we’ll spend less.
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You see, XL, here we are at the first border city, Esquel, as
usual, we must make sure to obtain a SOAT, but we don’t understand :
Everything’s closed except for the service stations and a few
restaurants…
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Ulla, maybe it’s a holiday, here, in Argentine….
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That’s it, XL, I’ve understood, it’s siesta time and the
businesses close from noon to 5.30 p.m. but are open until 9 p.m.
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Good news, we can subscribe a « mercosur » insurance policy : it’s a
form of SOAT, well, insurance… which covers us for 4 countries : Chile,
Argentine, Bolivia, Paraguay and Uruguay for six (6) months renewable for
775 Pesos, that’s 228 US Dollars or 175 Euros and moreover towing should
our equipment break down… unbelievable, that is « incredible ! » Ho,
ho !!
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XL, I see on the car’s compass that we’re going East but on the
map Ushuaia is South, so I don’t understand a thing here….
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But of course, Ulla, I, who
am starting to read a map better, we’re headed for Argentinian Patagonia,
as there are 2 patagonias, each country its own, it’s like the poles :
there is the North Pole from which we’re coming and the South Pole, to
which we’re going…
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XL, your comparisons are a bit narrow, like you in a way… ho, ho…
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Ulla, the road is always straight like that… without any trees… only
a few cities to cross, do you think that’s going to last until the Tierra
del Fuego ?
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Well, yes, XL, look at the map : Patagonia is 3,000 sq.km. in
area… it’s very very big !
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Let me sleep as these immense plains are tiring, the Chilean
Patagonia was much more beautiful, than it is here, where there’s nothing
to see… only a straight never-ending road… !
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Ulla, there was a lot more missing than that, you would have thought
we were in Peru, with their badly damaged roads…
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Tell
me, XL, you who never sleep, Mister Co-Pilot, Ushaia is still very far
away ? as today we’ve gone 500 km, with the same landscape….
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Stop, Ulla, and look at this vehicle overtaking us, its driver is
signalling us to stop and on top of that, with a bottle in his hand…. I’m
counting on you to defend us !
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XL, I recognize our friends from our ennemies and this gentleman,
our companions met him at the last service station… and they chatted
together.
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You see, Ulla, that I never saw before, these Argentinians have an
unbelievable sense of hospitality… he’s offering us this bottle in order
to congratulate us for having made such a trip and moreover, he’s
inviting us to come and see him when we reach Buenos Aires.
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Wake up, Ulla, look at this sign indicating that we’re going to see
animals, our buddies…
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Yes, lamas and ostriches, it’s like Canada Dry, the drink, which
resembles alcohol but it’s not alcohol ; it resembles ostriches but those
aren’t ostriches, they’re Choiques, Ho, ho !!
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Your spirit is as flat as is Patagonia….
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Maybe but, I know that Argentinian lamas are called guanacos.
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Ulla, it’s origina, these advertising signs without advertisements…
and a cart without horses… !
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No, XL, look better, they’re just lodgings and a decorative cart.
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Oh, that’s great, this sign indicates that we’re going to see
penguins and seals !
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You devil, XL, you think these animals are there in the fields…
of course not, it’s on the coast that you’ll see them towards Ushuaia, as
they like cold waters, they’re not like me and especially not like you
who hate water.
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You devil, XL, you think these animals are there in the fields…
of course not, it’s on the coast that you’ll see them towards Ushuaia, as
they like cold waters, they’re not like me and especially not like you
who hate water.
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So, first those are flamingoes and this sign indicates that it
will be necessary to put on your safety belt, little XL, as we are
nearing the windy capital, Rio Gallegos and it’s going to be very windy !
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Did you see, we’re nearing Ushuaia which is 578 km away, but we’re
absolutely facing the wind, and we’re running at 40 km per hour, so we’re
not about to reach there soon… it’s long.
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Badaboum, there’s damage with these wind gusts at more thn 120 km
per hour, the blind tarpaulin which was wound around it has been torn
off…
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XL, don’t leave the car, as we could find ourselves on the coast
with the penguins….
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You’re just out of your head, fatso…
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What are you doing, Ulla ? You’re speaking to yourself ?
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Yes, I’m saying, Patagonia, you’re really long and flat to cross
your land, and these bikers are lucky the wind is behind them to push
them.
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Don’t worry, for us too, the wind will be at our rear… coming back
from Ushuaia.
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Ah, finally animals just like us, they have enough to eat in
Patagonia, sheep, wild horses.
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You know, XL, I’d like to make myself a small roast….
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XL, let me explain… the Maldive islands are quite near the coast,
800 km away from here. They belong to Great Britain but the Argentinians
are claiming them… Here, don’t speak of Margaret Thatcher : it annoys
them, as in 1981 the Argentinians invaded these islands but the English
quickly tidied up the place with the help of Pinochet, the Chilean
President at the time, as the British planes had the autorisation to land
on Chilean territory.
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Ah, I’ve understood Ulla, why the Argentinians are not friends with
the Chileans… Ho, ho !
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You see, Ulla, if you continue speaking of politics, our Gallic is
going to put you on the roof of the Dodge like that dog… watch out !
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XL, you tire me… instead of that, look at the boat we’re going to
take to cross the Magellan strait, that famous navigator, our companions
are going to buy the tickets… I hope you don’t believe that… I’m kidding,
of course… there are more modern barges…
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Tell me, Ulla, we’re facing the Terra del Fuego, but I don’t see any
fire, why ?
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Let me explain, XL, why it is called the Terra del Fuego : In
times past, the Indians living on this island (as it is an island), as
soon as boats were sighted, the inhabitants happy to see a ship come, and
to signal the coastline, lit fires, they were the first beacons for
navigators, there, you just learned a new thing, I’m a good professor.
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Here’s the ferry arriving… we’re going to load the car and house
onto it.
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Again ? Why ?
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You know, XL, to reach Ushuaia we’re obliged to cross this strait
called the Magellan strait and which was discovered by the famous
navigator whose name it bears, this so as to avoid Cape Horn and to sail
between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
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OK, Ulla, I’m not scared… I’m shaking but I’m not scared….
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OK, XL, don’t be ashamed in front of this dog who’s patiently
waiting to cross ? Moreover, today there is no wind at all, the sea
is calm but for the past 2 days the crossings were cancelled as
there were violent winds…
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OK, I’m shaking but I’m shutting up, since we’re lucky… so called…nevertheless
it’s still dangerous to get on board this thing !
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Dangerous, here ? It’s as if you’re not remembering the fishing
boat in Bolivia… silly…
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Look at these sheep, they’re not shaking ! and yet I believe that
it’s their last day… to become roasts in the restaurants of Ushuaia….
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And there you go, XL, a new crossing accomplished without a
problem….
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We’re going to cross Chile to reach Argentina, what’s this mess,
Ulla ?
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Oh yes, you’re right, it’s a mess since the Tierra del Fuego is
partly in Chile and in Argentina so in a few kilometres four borders are
awaiting us…
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An exit from Argentina = a border then en entry into Chile = a
border then an exit from Chile and an entry into Argentina, they really
love each other, the Chileans and the Argentinians that they have nothing
more simple… 6 h ours of administrative paperwork we’re going to face…
good luck !
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That’s nonsense, Ulla.
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Be more tolerant, ladies and gentlemen of the customs ; this is
really close to being ridiculous, isn’t it, XL ?
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On top of it when you see that from one country to the next one must
have one’s fridge empty so as not to pollute the other country… in short,
no comment…
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Finally, fortunately there are customs as without that we would
not have met Agnes and Chimi, who are French (naturalised Mexicans) and
who are running on kitchen oil recuperated from restaurant kitchens… it’s
fabulous ! I say « bravo » to that and see you soon.
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Stop putting me on, Ulla, that’s not possible, is it ??
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OK, very well, go and see their web site :
www.laboratorioenmovimiento.com
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Ulla, I can’t manage any more, you manage to sleep, I see on the map
that there are yet kilometres to cross in order to reach our final
destination….
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Ulla, get up, it’s an order… look at the sky, it’s the Tierra del
Fuego and there are no more indians.
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Shut up, XL, and sleep on your map.
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Ulla, wake up, this road shakes one up so much and moreover, there
is a fire, there, so it
really is Tierra del Fuego !
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You’re right, XL, it really is a fire a fire from natural gas, as
here there are drillings and here those are the gas cutouts burning up.
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After 150 km of trail, I’m hurting everywhere, Ulla, a good
Argentinian soup smells good and finally a good road…
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Ushuaia is 111 km away, what bliss ! I’m sure our masters are
going to drink champagne as they’ve succeeded in their exploit, from the
Northernmost city to the Southernmost point of land.
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What’s happening, Ulla ? The car is heating and is letting us down,
we won’t be in Ushuaia tonight !
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You see, XL, the water pump is dead ; we must find a garage, but
still we’re luck as we’re entering Tolhuin, that’s better than in the
wild, no ?
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You know, Ulla, I know my Gallic bought a new pump in Santiago, he’s
careful.
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Fortunately you
didn’t growl when they signalled to the car, as we would never have been
towed to that garage.
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Thank you for your competence : in 3 hours, the pump is replaced… by
José’s team and moreover, we’ve got a ton of dog friends… but no female
dog of my size… pity….
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In any case, thank you for your asado, we received lots of bones….
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But Ulla, what is an asado ?
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Well, XL, it’s a barbecue, well, a BBQ, but our masters
appreciated that first asado so much, which is the tradition in
Argentina, that never again will they say « barbecue ». Thank you to José
(fireman, mechanic, known to all) and to Marta, the Brigitte Bardot of
the pueblo, for your warm welcome : One must know you in order to
appreciate such an evening. You’re great ! See you soon.
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…El Asado es Espectacular ,y Incrédible…
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Ulla, look, you see there are fires everywhere here, even the trees
are burning…
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Calm down, XL, you are persecuted by the Tierra del Fuego… the
explanation is that, here, a tornado occurred, and that the misery of
some makes others’ happiness. Proof of this is the sawmills make benefits
from it, for heating wood since here, in the middle of winter (at least
during August) it is between minus 15 and minus 20° Celsius
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Tell me, Ulla, you’d think we were in Alaska… it’s the same
landscape….
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No, XL, we’ve finally reached USHUAIA (the end of the world)
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You see, XL, after all those kilometres our masters remain very
« French style » with their sirloin steak, French fries and salad with a
good Argentinian wine of course and French camembert.
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Good night, XL, I want to be in shape to visit this city at the
end of the world in which there is
snow all year-round and 1,500 km from which the South Pole’s ice
field begins.
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You see, XL, this photo will seal our trip with that of Barrow in
Alaska, it’s magical ! We’re at the end of the world….
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… downtown San Martin Street…
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A pity, Ulla, that dogs are not accepted on this boat that’s going
to bring them to the Scouts’ lighthouse, the famous Ushuaia beacon….
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….the Austral Flora….
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…A male Cauquen Comun watching over his female and young….
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You tell them, XL, our reader friends, that should they come to
Ushuaia, they must get to know « Ramos Générales » on the waterfront, the
bakery held by David Dumond, a Frenchman of Burgundian origin, and
moreover very pleasant… see you soon on the web, David.
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…Decoration
of Ramos Générales, which is a real museum….
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…you can become a convict, as there were before, but for a few
minutes only…
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….original decoration of the bathroom…
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How lucky, XL, that a free public park exists for us to rest from
this long trip.
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Yes, and in Rio Olivia, the
water is so pure that we linked our pump to it but you bathed, as usual.
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Normal, not you, you were watched by Caranchos… to eat you up….
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….Carancho…
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Here is our friends’ house, Anne Marie and Daniel, the parents with
their three wonderful children who travelled by land and arriving by boat
in Buenos Aires having departed from France with their « lecabougnot » (that’s
the name of their outfitted truck) see their site :
www.lecabougnot.com
and see you soon on the web.
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…Tero Común…
…(common ground)…
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Never before seen in Ushuaia, did such a convoy cross the biggest
continent, from the Northernmost city, to the Southernmost city ; even
the press echoed its journey. What a delight to be able to read an
article of a page about us during breakfast.
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The Ushuaia
Newspaper dated February 12th, 2009 edition number 03420
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They are crossing the American continent with their owners
in a pick-up truck with mobile house.
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Two dogs on internet tell the adventures of a trip starting
at the « top of the world »
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Ulla is a female dobermann dog and XL a male yorkshire who arrived
a few days ago in Ushuaia, at the « End of the World », after a trip that
started in Barrow in Alaska, called « the Top of the World ». These two
dogs tell, on
www.les-poles-des-ameriques.org, the adventures of the crossing they
are carrying out with their owners, Eliane and Daniel, in a Dodge pick-up
truck with a mobile home. The four adventurous French are from the island
of Saint-Martin, in the Caribbean, where Daniel worked in his companies,
until, for his fiftieth birthday, he decided to leave the companies to
his sons and to take up travelling with his compagnon and their
inseparable mascots. To undertake this trip they elaborated a very
interesting cocktail, containing a third of curiosity and determination,
a third of love and bonding, a third of school of life, a zest of
thoughtlessness, a big slice of true freedom, the whole, sprinkled with
philosophy.
They decided to carry out this trip based on a constant challenge
he was receiving from people, who were telling them that going on these
paths was « very dangerous, especially regarding the Central American
region », but they can attest that after having crossed 80.000 kilometers,
they encountered no clashes, neither were they aggressed, or threatened
or their belongings stolen, but that during these 18 months of travel,
they endured nature’s strengths, with extreme temperatures ranging from
minus 30° up to 52° Celsius.
It’s the first trip someone has carried out from the Northern most
extremity to the Southern most tip of the American continent with a
mobile home moored on a pick-up truck, which, in total, makes a vehicle
of almost 15 meters in length.
Eliane, who spoke on behalf of the dogs, declared that they are the
ones telling this adventure since they can express what they wish to
according to the trip. By noting that « they say the truth, and the truth
offends no one », and that’s the reason why they score 32.000 weekly hits
on the web site. During the journey, they crossed Alaska from North to
South, Canada from West to East, the United States from Chicago to Los
Angeles using the famous Route 66, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Salvador,
Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Columbia, Equator, Peru,
Bolivia, Chile, Patagonia, and Argentina. They suffered 12 flat tires,
were twice stuck in mud, and had a fire once, but they never had an
accident, nor were they sick. Up to now, they took more than 4.000
photographs, and hope to take a lot more, since the trip continues
towards the north of our country, to visit, then Paraguay, visit the
South of Brazil, and of Uruguay, where this planned trip will end.
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For the record :
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- 18 months of travel
- 1 fire, 1 earthquake
- 80,000 km crossed
- 0 accident, 0 virus or illness
- More than 4,000 photos
- 0 insect sting or venimous bite
- 38 border cross-overs
- 0 aggression, threat, theft, conflict
- 12 flat tyres
- Extreme temperatures from -30 to +52° Celsius
- 1300 hours of maintenance
- wheels twice stuck in the mud
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For this extraordinary and very uncommon trip, we set up as of Day 1
an excellent cocktail, that we drank up, each day and without moderation…
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Here is its recipe :
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* 1/3 curiosity and obstinacy
* 1/3 of love and complicity
* 1/3 school of life and sharing
* 1 zest of recklessness
* A large slice of real freedom
* the whole being powdered with philosophy…
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Finally, before the final conclusion, the Gypsy and the Gallic, are
taking up their pen again, as I, Ulla, have for the time being finished
writing the itinerary notes with the assistance of XL,
(honestly, we deserve to appear in the Guinness Book of Records, don’t
we ?) :
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And for XL…hip, hip, Ulla !
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We accomplished our dream, and we enabled you to share it, as you
can imagine Ulla and XL have had quite some work to build up this site
offered, and we thank them, you can congratulate them by writing on the
Visitors’ Book…
We won’t say our goodbyes to you as in not too long a time we will
enable you to discover the Northern part of Argentine, Paraguay, South
Brazil and Uruguay.
To share a secret with you… we think we will lay our suitcases down
definitely on the South American continent to live there, with other
surprises, that you will be able to follow, be patient.
Indeed, we have discovered peoples with an amazing sense of
hospitalit, such generous hearts, places in which we never felt unsafe,
people not burdened down by constraints and who incite us to write to you
our thoughts on our native homeland :
« Don’t smile to a woman she’s going to
take you for a sex maniac.., don’t smile either at a man he’s going to
take you for a gay…, especially don’t smile to a child you’re going to be
known as a child molester… so » be grouchy faced and « walk straight
ahead of you each day that God makes ! »
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….Smooches from the 4 accomplices….Ulla
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